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Scotch
whisky
Scotch
whisky is whisky
made in Scotland.
In the English-speaking
world it is often referred to as "Scotch",
including in the United
Kingdom, although there the term whisky is usually taken to
mean Scotch unless otherwise specified.
Scotch
whisky is divided into four distinct categories: single
malt, vatted malt (also called "pure malt"), blended and
single grain.
To
be called Scotch whisky the spirit must conform to the standards of the
Scotch Whisky Order of 1990 (UK),
which clarified the Scotch Whisky Act of 1988,
and mandates that the spirit:
Must
be distilled at a Scottish distillery
from water and malted barley,
to which only other whole grains may be added, have been processed at
that distillery into a mash, converted to a fermentable
substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems, and fermented only by the
addition of yeast.
Must
be distilled to an alcoholic strength of less than 94.8% by volume so
that it retains the flavour of the raw materials used in its
production.
Must
be matured in Scotland in oak casks for not less than three years.
Must
not contain any added substance other than water and caramel colouring.
May
not be bottled at less than 40% alcohol by volume.
No
whisky other than Scotch whisky may be made in Scotland.
Methods of production
Types of whisky
Malt
whisky must contain no grain other than malted barley
and is traditionally distilled in pot
stills. Grain whisky may contain unmalted barley or other malted or
unmalted grains such as wheat
and maize
(corn) and is typically distilled in a continuous column
still, known as a Patent or Coffey
still, the latter after Aeneas
Coffey who refined the column still in 1831. While there are scores of
malt whisky distilleries, only seven grain distilleries currently exist,
most located in the Scottish
Lowlands.
Malting
Malt
whisky production begins when the barley is malted - by steeping the
barley in water, and then allowing it to get to the point of germination.
Malting releases enzymes that break down starches in the grain and help
convert them into sugars. When the desired state of germination is reached
the malted barley is dried using smoke. Many (but not all) distillers add peat
to the fire to give an earthy, peaty flavour to the spirit.
Today
only a handful of distilleries have their own maltings; these include Balvenie,
Kilchoman, Highland
Park, Glenfiddich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Springbank
and Tamdhu.
Even those distilleries that malt their own barley produce only a small
percentage of the malt required for production. All distilleries order
malt from specialised malters.
Mashing & Fermentation
The
dried malt
(and in the case of grain whisky, other grains) is ground into a coarse
flour called "grist."
This is mixed with hot water in a large vessel called a mash
tun. The grist is allowed to steep.
This
process is referred to as "mashing,"
and the mixture as "mash". In mashing, enzymes that were
developed during the malting process are allowed to convert the barley
starch into sugar, producing a sugary liquid known as "wort".
The
wort is then transferred to another large vessel called a "wash
back" where it is cooled. The yeast
is added, and the wort is allowed to ferment. The resulting liquid, now at
about 5-7% alcohol
by volume, is called "wash" and is very similar to a
rudimentary beer.
Distillation
The
next step is to use a still to distil the wash - which will result in a
purer form of alcohol.
There
are two types of stills in use for the distillation: the pot still (for
single malts) and the Coffey still (for grain whisky). All Scotch whisky
distilleries distil their product twice except for the Auchentoshan
distillery, which retains the Lowlands
tradition of triple distillation.
For
malt whisky the wash is transferred into a wash still. The liquid is
heated to the boiling point of alcohol, which is lower than the boiling
point of water. The alcohol evaporates and travels to the top of the
still, through the "lyne arm" and into a condenser - where it is
cooled and reverts to liquid. This liquid has an alcohol content of about
20% and is called "low wine".
The
low wine is distilled a second time, in a spirit still, and the
distillation is divided into three "cuts". The first liquid or
cut of the distillation is called "foreshots" and is generally
quite toxic. These are generally saved for further distillation.
It
is the "middle cut" that the stillman is looking for - it is the
middle cut which will be placed in casks for maturation. At this stage it
is called "new make".
Its alcohol content can be anywhere from
60%-75%.
The
third cut is called the "feints" and is generally quite weak.
These are also saved for further distillation.
Maturation
Once
distilled the "new make spirit" is placed into oak casks for the
maturation process. Historically, casks previously used for sherry
were used (as barrels are expensive, and there was a ready market for used
sherry butts). Nowadays these casks previously contained sherry or bourbon,
but more exotic casks such as port, cognac, calvados, beer, and Bordeaux
wine are sometimes used. Bourbon production is a nearly inexhaustible
generator of used barrels, due to a regulation requiring the use of new,
North American white
oak barrels.
The
ageing process results in evaporation,
so each year in the cask causes a loss of volume as well as a reduction in
alcohol. The 0.5–2.0% lost each year is known as the angel's
share. Many whiskies along the west coast and on the Hebrides are
stored in open storehouses on the coast, allowing the salty sea air to
pass on its flavour to the spirit. It is a little-known fact, however,
that most so-called "coastal" whiskies are matured in large
central warehouses in the Scottish interior far from any influence of the
sea. The distillate must age for at least three years to
be called Scotch whisky, although most single malts are offered at a
minimum of eight years of age. Some believe that older whiskies are
inherently better, but others find that the age for optimum flavour
development changes drastically from distillery to distillery, or even
from cask to cask. Older whiskies are inherently scarcer, however, so they
usually command significantly higher prices.
Colour
can give a clue to the type of cask (sherry or bourbon) used to age the
whisky, although the addition of legal "spirit caramel" is
sometimes used to darken an otherwise lightly coloured whisky. Sherried
whisky is usually darker or more amber in colour, while whisky aged in
ex-bourbon casks is usually a golden-yellow/honey colour.
The
late 1990s saw a trend towards "wood finishes" in which fully
matured whisky is moved from one barrel into another one that had
previously aged a different type of alcohol (e.g., port, madeira, rum,
wine, etc) to add the "finish".
The
Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottling number 1.81, for instance, is known by
some as "the green Glenfarclas". It was finished in a rum
cask after 27 years in an oak (ex-bourbon) barrel and is the colour of extra-virgin
olive oil. This is in homage to the legendary "Green Springbank",
also aged in rum casks.
Bottling
With
single malts, the now properly aged spirit may be "vatted", or
"married", with other single malts (sometimes of different ages)
from the same distillery. The whisky is generally diluted to a bottling
strength of between 40% and 46%.
Occasionally
distillers will release a "Cask Strength" edition, which is not
diluted and will usually have an alcohol content of 50–60%.
Many
distilleries are releasing "Single Cask" editions, which are the
product of a single cask which has not been vatted with whisky from any
other casks. These bottles will usually have a label which details the
date the whisky was distilled, the date it was bottled, the number of
bottles produced, the number of the particular bottle, and the number of
the cask which produced the bottles.
Chill filtration
Many
whiskies are bottled after being "chill-filtered". This is a
process in which the whisky is chilled to near 0°C (32°F) and passed
through a fine filter. This removes some of the compounds produced during
distillation or extracted from the wood of the cask, and prevents the
whisky from becoming hazy when chilled, or when water or ice is added.
However
chill filtration also removes some of the flavour and body from the
whisky, which is why some consider chill-filtered whiskies to be inferior.
Whisky Regions
Scotland
was traditionally divided into four regions: The Highlands, Lowland, Islay
and Campbeltown.
Speyside,
encompassing the Spey river valley in north-east Scotland, once considered
part of the Highlands, has almost half of the total number of distilleries
in Scotland within its geographic boundaries; consequently it is
officially recognized as a region unto itself.
Campbeltown
was removed as a region several years ago, yet was recently re-instated as
a recognized production region.
The
Islands is not recognized as a region by the SWA (Scotch Whisky
Association)
and is instead considered part of the Highlands region.
Lowland — only three distilleries remain in
operation: Auchentoshan, Bladnoch,
and Glenkinchie.
Speyside — has the largest number of distilleries,
which includes: Aberlour, Balvenie, Glenfiddich, The
Glenlivet and The
Macallan.
Highland — some Highland distilleries:
Dalmore, Dalwhinnie, Glenmorangie
and Oban.
The
Islands, an unrecognized sub-region includes all of
the whisky producing islands (but excludes Islay): Arran, Jura, Mull,
Orkney
and Skye
— with their respective distilleries: Arran, Isle of Jura, Tobermory,
Highland Park and Scapa,
and Talisker.
Campbeltown, once home to over 30 distilleries,
currently has only three distilleries operating: Glengyle, Glen Scotia and
Springbank.
Islay
— has eight
producing distilleries: Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol
Ila, Lagavulin and Laphroaig.
A new small distillery, Kilchoman,
has recently begun production, but is not yet selling whisky.
Types of Scotch whisky
There
are two major categories, single and blended. Single means that all
of the product is from a single distillery, while Blended means
that the product is composed of whiskies from two or more distilleries.
Single
malt whisky is
a 100% malted barley whisky from one distillery.
Single grain whisky
is a grain whisky from one distillery (it does not have to be
made from a single type of grain).
Vatted
or Blended malt whisky is a malt whisky created by mixing
single malt whiskies from more than one distillery.
Blended
grain whisky
is a whisky created by mixing grain whiskies from more than one
distillery.
Blended Scotch whisky
is a mixture of single malt whisky and grain whisky, usually from
multiple distilleries.
Single grain
The
majority of grain whisky produced in Scotland goes to make blended Scotch
whisky. The average blended whisky is 60%-85% grain whisky. Some higher
quality grain whisky from a single distillery is bottled as single
grain whisky. As of 2006, there are only seven grain whisky
distilleries in Scotland.
Vatted / Blended malt
Vatted
malt whisky—also called pure malt—is one of the less common
types of Scotch: a blend of single malts from more than one distillery and
with differing ages. Vatted malts contain only malt whiskies—no grain
whiskies—and are usually distinguished from other types of whisky by the
absence of the word ‘single’ before ‘malt’ on the bottle, and the
absence of a distillery name. The age of the youngest whisky in the bottle
is that used to describe the age on the label, so a vatted malt marked
“8 years old” may include older whiskies.
Blended
Blended
Scotch whisky constitutes over 90% of the whisky
produced in Scotland. Blended Scotch whiskies generally contain 10–50%
malt whisky, blended with grain whisky, with the higher quality brands
having the highest percent malt. They were initially created for the
English market, where pure malt whiskies were considered too harshly
flavoured (the main two spirits consumed in England at the time being brandy
in the upper classes, and gin
in the lower ones). Master blenders combine the various malts and grain
whiskies to produce a consistent "brand style". Blended whiskies
frequently use the same name for a range of whiskies at wildly varying
prices and (presumably) quality. Notable blended Scotch whisky brands
include Dewar's, Johnnie
Walker, Cutty
Sark, The
Famous Grouse, and Chivas
Regal.
Independent bottlers
Most
malt distilleries sell a significant amount of whisky by the cask for
blending, and sometimes to private buyers as well. Whisky from such casks
is sometimes bottled as a single malt by independent firms such as Gordon
& MacPhail, Cadenhead, Murray McDavid, Signatory, and others. These
are usually labeled with the distillery's name, but not using the
distillery's trademarked logos or typefaces. An "official
bottling" (or "proprietary bottling"), by comparison, is
one from the distillery (or its owner). Many independent bottlings are
from single casks, and they may sometimes be very different from an
official bottling.
There
have been occasional efforts by distillers to curtail independent
bottling; Allied
Domecq, owner of the Laphroaig distillery, initiated
legal action against Murray McDavid in an effort to prevent them from
using "Distilled at Laphroaig Distillery" in their independent
bottlings of said whisky. Murray McDavid subsequently used the name
"Leapfrog" for a time, before Allied backed off.
William
Grant & Sons, which owns three malt distilleries, adds a measure of
one of its other distilleries' whisky to each cask of malt it sells to
independent bottlers. This prevents independent bottlers from bottling the
contents of the cask as a single malt.
To
avoid potentially sticky legal issues, some independent bottlings do not
reveal the distillery of the whisky, using a manufactured brand name or a
geographical name instead such as Old
St Andrews.
Understanding a Scotch whisky label
Like
most other labels, the Scotch whisky label combines law, tradition,
marketing, and whim, and may therefore be difficult to understand. Because
of variations in language and national law, the following is but a rough
guide.
Scotch
whisky labels contain the exact words "Scotch whisky";
"Whisky" is sometimes capitalised. If the word
"Scotch" is missing, the whisky is probably made elsewhere. If
it says Scotch whiskey or Scottish whisky, it may be
counterfeit.
If
a label contains the words single malt (sometimes split by other words
e.g., single highland malt), the bottle contains single malt Scotch
whisky.
Vatted
malt, pure malt or blended malt indicates a mixture of single malt
whiskies. In older bottlings pure malt is often used to describe a single
malt (e.g. Glenfiddich Pure Malt).
The
label may identify the distillery as the main brand or as part of the
product description. This is most likely the case for single malt. Some
single malt whisky is sold anonymously or with a fictitious brand name.
This does not indicate quality, but successive bottles may be completely
different. The only reliable way to identify the distillery is to use a
reference.
Alcoholic
strength is listed in most countries. Typically, whisky is between 40% and
46% abv. A lower alcohol content may indicate an "economy"
whisky or local law. If the bottle is over 50% abv it is probably cask
strength.
Age
is sometimes listed as well. If a bottle is, say, 12 years old, then all
the whisky in the bottle was matured in cask for at least 12 years before
bottling.
A
year on a bottle normally indicates the year of distillation and one cask
bottling, so the year the whisky was bottled may be listed as well. Whisky
does not mature once bottled, so the age is the difference between these
two dates; if both dates are not shown the age cannot be known from the
bottle alone.
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